I decided to go for just one window (in both vans) in part to keep it stealthy, easier to keep warm/cool - and also to keep down costs. The window I installed is a privacy style window with no opening.
These windows are inexpensive (£120/$150) are very large and look great
VIDEO GUIDE
Watch here:
Note: Not all windows have the same installation process. Do check the suppliers recommended method.
The process was fairly straight forward – but there is a lot that can go wrong.
1. First mark out the window placement on the outside of the van. Measure it about three to four times for your marking I used a marker pen to draw the hole to be cut out.
2. Put the window up against the van to check the lines you are drawing make sense with the actual window area!
3. Once you are 100% sure, drill a 10mm hole to put in your jigsaw blade, put on some ear defenders and eye protection (it is very loud) and cut your hole!
4. I recommend finishing the cut at the top, this way when you get to the end it does not twist off and buckle the metal work.
Finishing the cut – the top middle section was the last to go. This meant with a gentle push the metal panel (with sharp edges) dropped inside the van not on to my feet.
5. Take a file and run it around the edges to take off the sharp edges
6. Close up any panel work with pliers or Just be sure to protect the shape of the outer panel with some wood.
Using wood behind the metal panel I used some mole grips to close these sections that would stop me putting the window edging on neatly.
7. Apply the edging, tap it around so it is pressed fully into the corners, then when you are sure you have it right, cut the edging so the ends fit neatly
8. Paint on primer to Clean the window adhesive area – this was in the form of some wipes – it removes grease and other dirt that could stop proper adhesion.
8. Apply the glue to It seems like you have to put on a lot of glue, and you do. It has to fill in the whole gap between the glass and the panel. There is a gap because of the thickness of the rubber edging.
If you do not put on enough, especially at the top, it will leak!
Tips:
Cut a good length off the tube to make squeezing the adhesive out easier
Don’t squeeze too hard as it tends to buckle the handle of the gun (buying the more expensive guns helps with this)
10. As soon as you have applied the glue, place the window on to the van get someone to help!
11. Hold it there for a while – I just held it for as long as it took that you could not feel any movement when pushing it up.. and then a bit longer to be sure. It probably takes 15 minutes – depending on
Window sills & Black out blind
Making the window frame is actually a little tricky. The shapes involved are a bit complicated as are the angles – but nothing a bit of patience cannot fix.
Sill
I used a bit of redwood to give a different color compared to the usual pine. I cut the shape of the wood to fit inside the paneling and, under the back edge, sanded it down so it fit with the curved profile of the metal work.
VIDEO GUIDE
Sides
The sides, at each end these are angled – to work it out was tricky – but when you get it right and they fit in it looks great.
At the top outside corner I cut a profile to match the blind when it is installed. The blind will run behind the side piece.
I cut profile at the bottom of both sides to allow the blind to run behind it and allow it to ‘lock’ in.
Top
The top part, as you cannot really see the under-side I simply screwed it in to the woodwork above it.
Curtain 1. Black-out blind
There is no point in making a stealthy van if lots of light escapes and clearly shows off your presence! Plus I like darkness in the mornings if I want to sleep in.
By sheer coincidence the width I needed was 123cm and Ikea sells a suitable black out blind of that exact width!
I screwed the blind onto the top of the window frame, after I glued the two sides in and the window was finished!
Curtain 2 – Magnetic PVC Backed Canvas
In my latest van I went for a simple magnet based curtain. I used neodymium magnets glued into a PVC backed Canvas.
The canvas was glued all over and folded over with magnets at the new edges. I added strips with more magnets at the ends.
The magnets attach to the window edging (which has steel forms to give it strength) It is fast to apply and during the day I roll it up and put it into this small cupboard I created for it.
Slider panel image
The slider panel on my first van serves three purposes:
- Makes the van look more like a builder's van from looking into the cab
- It isolates the heat (or cold) of the cab from the living space
- It enables you to access the cab without going outside – open it up for ventilation, natural light in bad weather or, if in winter to capitalise on the warmth the front of the cab generates in the sun
The slider was made with the following layers;
- 9mm hardwood ply
- Foil insulation
- Auto carpet
- Big canvas image
I spray glued and staple gunned the insulation to the wooden panel. It is 1.5cm narrower than the slider area to make it easier to use.
Then I applied the canvas image – this is a photo of Yosemite – where some of my longer term climbing goals are. Using a liberal amount of spray-glue on the wood and carefully, from one side smoothing and rolling the image on to the wood.
The canvas photo was purchased online and it was bought without a frame for about £50 / $65.
I then put on the auto carpet – also stapled on the sides and glued.
Adding the handle was pretty easy (the holes in the wood were pre drilled). I used a scalpel to cut the hole in the canvas for the bolts to go through.
Fixing the slider in the ‘up’ position
The slider is fairly heavy and I originally added two push-fit clips to the top of it. These mostly holds it up, but not with vibration of driving. So I just have a bolt that I slide in - behind the recliner seat which locks the panel in place.
I leave a neodymium magnet on the back of the bolt so I can just attach it to a screw when it is not in use.
Bolt that stops the slider moving, and right – a magnet holding it to a bolt so it does not get lost.
I was really happy with the slider aspect of the design. It has worked really well and being able to use the cab as an isolated place to dry towels or to heat the solar shower has been useful.
I broke my leg and the plastic boot I had to walk in got fairly smelly – it was nice to be able to get it out of the living space at night! Same goes for climbing shoes sometimes!
Slider handle – just bought from a DIY store. Screws in from the back. See push fit clips above the handle.
The slider when down.